Skin terminal
Ingredient glossary
294 ingredients by the names on the label, grouped by the job each does in a formula. Every entry says what the thing is and where the public record on it is (Wikidata, PubMed); none says what it will do for your skin, because that depends on the product and on you. The label lists ingredients in descending order by weight, so the first five are most of what you are buying.
AllActiveHumectantEmollientOcclusiveCleansing agentEmulsifierPreservativeAntioxidantExfoliantUV filterFragranceColorantTexture and thickenerSolventConditioning agentSkin protectantpH adjusterChelating agent
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Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (argireline)ActiveA six-amino-acid peptide marketed for expression lines; works on the surface only, whatever the marketing says about muscles.Acrylates crosspolymerAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer · Texture and thickenerA synthetic polymer that thickens and keeps oil droplets suspended in gels and light lotions.Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymerAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer · Texture and thickenerA synthetic thickener that gives serums and gel-creams a silky, non-sticky texture.Activated charcoalCharcoal Powder · Texture and thickenerCarbon processed to be porous; added to masks and cleansers for its absorbing reputation, mostly as a colour and marketing ingredient in…AdapaleneActiveA synthetic retinoid sold over the counter in the US at 0.1 percent for acne; a drug, not a cosmetic.AdenosineActiveA nucleoside found in all cells, used in Korean formulas as a mild anti-wrinkle active; approved for that claim in Korea.AllantoinSkin protectantA compound originally from comfrey root, now made synthetically; an FDA skin protectant at 0.5 to 2 percent, used for its soothing…Aloe veraAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice · HumectantThe inner-leaf gel of the aloe plant, mostly water with sugars; used for its cooling, soothing reputation. On some labels it replaces water…Alpha-arbutinActiveThe alpha form of arbutin, sold as more effective; used at about 2 percent.Aluminum chlorohydrateActiveThe sweat-blocking ingredient in antiperspirants, an over-the-counter drug in the US; forms a temporary plug in the sweat duct. Deodorants…Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glyActiveA stronger antiperspirant active used in 'clinical strength' sticks; an OTC drug ingredient.Aminomethyl propanolpH adjusterAn alkaline pH adjuster used with carbomer gels.AmodimethiconeConditioning agentA silicone with an amine group so it clings to damaged, negatively charged hair; washes out more slowly than dimethicone.Apple amino acid surfactantSodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids · Cleansing agentA mild surfactant made from coconut fatty acids and amino acids from apple juice.Apricot kernel oilPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil · EmollientA light oil from apricot stones, close to sweet almond oil but from a stone fruit rather than a nut.ArbutinActiveA compound from bearberry leaves that slowly releases hydroquinone in skin; used in brightening serums. The EU limits it in face creams.Argan oilArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil · EmollientOil pressed from the argan kernel of Morocco; high in oleic and linoleic acids and vitamin E. Used in hair and face oils.Ascorbyl glucosideAntioxidantVitamin C bonded to glucose, stable in water; skin enzymes release the vitamin C.Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateAntioxidantAnother oil-soluble vitamin C ester, closely related to tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.AstaxanthinAntioxidantA red-orange carotenoid from algae (the colour of salmon and flamingos); a fat-soluble antioxidant.AvobenzoneUV filterThe main chemical UVA filter allowed in US sunscreens; unstable in light on its own, so it is paired with stabilisers like octocrylene.Avocado oilPersea Gratissima Oil · EmollientA rich green oil from the avocado flesh, high in oleic acid; used in heavier creams and balms.Azelaic acidActiveA dicarboxylic acid from grains. Prescription strengths (15 to 20 percent) are drugs; cosmetic products use about 10 percent or less.
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Baking sodaSodium Bicarbonate · pH adjusterUsed in 'natural' deodorants to neutralise odour; alkaline, which is why it irritates some underarms. Also a bath bomb's fizz with citric…BakuchiolActiveA plant compound from the babchi seed, marketed as a retinol alternative; used at about 0.5 to 1 percent.Baobab oilAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil · EmollientA stable African seed oil with a balanced fatty-acid profile; used in face oils and hair products.BeeswaxCera Alba · OcclusiveThe wax of the honeycomb; thickens balms and lip products and seals moisture in. Not vegan; candelilla and carnauba are the plant stand-ins.Behentrimonium chlorideConditioning agentA cationic conditioning agent from rapeseed oil that detangles and smooths hair; the working part of most conditioners.Bentonite clayTexture and thickenerA swelling volcanic clay that absorbs oil and thickens; the strong, drying clay of 'deep cleansing' masks.Benzoyl peroxideActiveAn over-the-counter acne drug ingredient in the US, 2.5 to 10 percent. Bleaches fabric and can oxidise retinoids applied at the same time.Benzyl alcoholPreservativeAn aromatic alcohol used as a preservative and solvent; also one of the 26 fragrance allergens the EU requires to be named on a label.Benzyl benzoateFragranceA scent fixative found in balsams; a listed fragrance allergen.Bergamot oilCitrus Bergamia Peel Oil · FragranceThe scent of Earl Grey tea. Cold-pressed bergamot is phototoxic because of bergapten; 'bergapten-free' (FCF) versions are used in leave-on…Beta-glucanHumectantA sugar from oats, yeast or mushrooms; a humectant and film former with a soothing reputation.BetaineHumectantAn amino-acid derivative from sugar beet; a humectant that also softens the feel of surfactants.Bifida ferment lysateActiveBroken-down cells of a bifidobacteria culture; a 'probiotic' skin care ingredient, though nothing in it is alive.Bilberry extractVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract · AntioxidantEuropean blueberry extract; one of the 'fruit acid' extracts in AHA products, with anthocyanin antioxidants.BisabololActiveThe main component of chamomile oil, used in small amounts for its soothing reputation; often paired with zingiber (ginger) extract.Black seed oilNigella Sativa Seed Oil · EmollientOil of the black cumin seed, with a strong, peppery scent; used in hair and beard oils.Blue 1CI 42090 · ColorantA synthetic blue dye used in bath bombs, body wash and some eye makeup.Butylene glycolSolventA small glycol used as a solvent and humectant, and to thin a formula; carries other ingredients into the mix.
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C12-15 alkyl benzoateEmollientA light ester emollient that also helps dissolve UV filters; common in sunscreens.CaffeineActiveThe same compound as in coffee, used in eye creams and body products; a mild vasoconstrictor on the skin's surface.Calendula extractCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract · ActiveMarigold flower extract, a traditional ingredient of balms and baby creams.CamphorActiveA cooling, aromatic compound from the camphor laurel or made synthetically; an OTC drug ingredient in chest rubs and lip balms at set…Candelilla waxEuphorbia Cerifera Cera · OcclusiveA hard plant wax from a Mexican shrub; the vegan substitute for beeswax in balms.Caprylic/capric triglyceride (fractionated coconut oil)EmollientThe light fraction of coconut oil, liquid and nearly odourless; a very common, stable emollient that feels like a dry oil.Caprylyl glycolPreservativeA glycol with mild antimicrobial action that boosts preservatives and acts as a humectant.Capsicum (chili) extractCapsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract · ActiveChili extract, used in 'warming' and lip-plumping products; the heat is capsaicin.CarbomerTexture and thickenerA synthetic polymer that turns water into a clear gel; the texture of most gel moisturizers and hand sanitizers.Carmine (CI 75470)ColorantA red pigment from the cochineal insect; the one red that is not vegan. An allergen for a small number of people.Carnauba waxCopernicia Cerifera Cera · OcclusiveThe hardest natural wax, from a Brazilian palm; gives balms and mascaras structure.Castor oilRicinus Communis Seed Oil · EmollientA thick, glossy oil from the castor bean; gives lipstick its shine and soap its bubbles. The beans are toxic; the refined oil is not.Castor oil estersRicinus Communis Seed Oil Glycereth-7 Esters · EmollientCastor oil made water-dispersible, so it can rinse off in cleansing oils and balms.Cationic guarGuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride · Conditioning agentGuar gum modified to carry a positive charge; a plant-based conditioning agent.Centella asiatica (cica)Centella Asiatica Extract · ActiveAn extract of the gotu kola plant, a staple of Korean skin care sold for its soothing reputation; its components are listed as…Ceramide AP (ceramide 6 II)EmollientAnother of the skin's own ceramides, often listed alongside NP and EOP.Ceramide EOP (ceramide 1)EmollientA long-chain ceramide that links the lipid layers of the skin barrier.Ceramide NP (ceramide 3)EmollientOne of the lipids that make up the mortar between skin cells; added to creams to support the barrier. Usually with cholesterol and fatty…Cetearyl alcoholEmollientA waxy fatty alcohol, not the drying kind: it thickens creams and leaves a soft feel. 'Alcohol-free' claims refer to ethanol, not to this.Cetearyl olivateEmulsifierAn olive-derived emulsifier, half of the 'Olivem 1000' pair with sorbitan olivate; common in natural creams.Cetrimonium chlorideConditioning agentA cationic conditioner and antistatic agent; also mildly antimicrobial.Cetyl alcoholEmollientA fatty alcohol from coconut or palm oil used to thicken and soften; one half of cetearyl alcohol.Chamomile extractChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract · ActiveGerman chamomile, used for its soothing reputation; the active part is bisabolol. A relative of ragweed, so a few people react to it.ChlorphenesinPreservativeA preservative against fungi and bacteria, limited to 0.3 percent in the EU.CholesterolEmollientOne of the three lipid families of the skin barrier, with ceramides and fatty acids; added to barrier creams, usually from plant or wool…Citric acidpH adjusterA fruit acid used in small amounts to set a formula's pH; at higher amounts a mild AHA.CitronellolFragranceA rose-like scent compound from geranium and citronella; a listed fragrance allergen.Coal tarActiveAn over-the-counter drug ingredient for dandruff and psoriasis shampoos in the US; banned in EU cosmetics.Cocamide DEACleansing agentA foam booster the EU restricts and California lists under Proposition 65; most makers have moved to MEA or MIPA versions.Cocamide MEACleansing agentA coconut-derived foam booster and thickener in shampoos.Cocamidopropyl betaineCleansing agentA mild coconut-derived surfactant used to soften harsher ones and boost foam; a contact allergen for a small share of people, usually from…Coco-caprylate/caprateEmollientA plant-derived ester that feels like a light silicone; used in 'silicone-free' formulas.Coco-glucosideCleansing agentA mild sugar-based surfactant related to decyl glucoside; foams moderately.Cocoa butterTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter · EmollientThe fat of the cacao bean, solid at room temperature and melting on skin; a traditional body balm base with a faint chocolate smell.Coconut oilCocos Nucifera Oil · EmollientThe oil of the coconut, solid below about 76°F; mostly lauric acid. Rich and occlusive; rated comedogenic in older rabbit-ear tests, which…Coenzyme Q10Ubiquinone · AntioxidantA fat-soluble antioxidant made by the body, used in creams; orange-yellow in the bottle.Colloidal oatmealAvena Sativa Kernel Flour · Skin protectantFinely ground oats; an FDA skin protectant for itching and irritation, and the base of oat baths.Colloidal silverPreservativeSilver particles in water, marketed as antimicrobial. The FDA has acted against colloidal silver sold with health claims.Copper peptide (GHK-Cu)Copper Tripeptide-1 · ActiveA copper-bound tripeptide that gives serums a blue tint; usually kept apart from strong vitamin C in a routine.CoumarinFragranceThe scent of fresh hay and tonka bean; a listed fragrance allergen.CyclopentasiloxaneEmollientA light, volatile silicone that evaporates after spreading; gives the slip in primers and hair serums. The EU restricts it in rinse-off…
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Decyl glucosideCleansing agentA mild, sugar-based surfactant from corn glucose and coconut fatty alcohol; common in baby and sensitive-skin washes.Dehydroacetic acidPreservativeA preservative often paired with benzyl alcohol in formulas sold as paraben-free.Denatured alcoholAlcohol Denat. · SolventEthanol made undrinkable; used as a solvent, to help actives penetrate and to make a product feel light and dry fast. High up the list it…Dicaprylyl carbonateEmollientA dry-feel ester used in sunscreens and light lotions.DimethiconeEmollientA silicone that leaves a smooth, breathable film; an FDA skin protectant at 1 to 30 percent. Washes off with ordinary cleansers.Dimethyl isosorbideSolventA sugar-derived solvent that helps actives like retinoids and salicylic acid penetrate.Dipropylene glycolSolventA glycol solvent and humectant used in toners and fragrances.Disodium cocoamphodiacetateCleansing agentA very mild amphoteric surfactant used in baby shampoos and eye-area cleansers.Disodium EDTAChelating agentBinds metal ions in the water so they do not spoil the product or weaken the preservative; used in tiny amounts.Disodium laureth sulfosuccinateCleansing agentA mild secondary surfactant used to soften sulfate-based washes.DMDM hydantoinPreservativeA preservative that works by slowly releasing formaldehyde; allowed at low levels, but a known contact allergen for people sensitised to…
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EctoinHumectantA molecule from bacteria that live in salt lakes, used to hold water in the surface of skin.Epsom saltMagnesium Sulfate · Texture and thickenerMagnesium sulfate crystals, the usual bath soak. Claims that it delivers magnesium through the skin are not well supported.Ethanol (alcohol)SolventDrinking alcohol, listed as 'alcohol' on labels; see denatured alcohol.Ethylhexyl palmitateEmollientA light synthetic ester that gives a dry, silky feel; a common replacement for silicones.EthylhexylglycerinPreservativeA glycerin derivative that boosts preservatives and conditions skin; the usual partner of phenoxyethanol.Eucalyptus oilEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil · FragranceEssential oil high in eucalyptol (1,8-cineole); used in chest rubs and bath products. Not for use on or near the faces of young children.EugenolFragranceThe scent of clove; a listed fragrance allergen and a mild numbing agent.Evening primrose oilOenothera Biennis Oil · EmollientA seed oil high in gamma-linolenic acid; used in creams for dry skin.
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Galactomyces fermentGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate · HumectantA yeast ferment used in Korean essences, with the same general makeup as the Saccharomyces kind.GeraniolFragranceA sweet rose scent found in geranium and rose oils; a listed fragrance allergen.Geranium oilPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil · FragranceA rose-like essential oil high in citronellol and geraniol, both listed fragrance allergens.Gluconolactone (PHA)ExfoliantA polyhydroxy acid, a larger cousin of the alpha hydroxy acids that stays on the surface; also a humectant and antioxidant.Glycerin (glycerol)HumectantA sugar alcohol from vegetable oils or made synthetically; the most used humectant in skin care and one of the best studied. Usually sits…Glyceryl caprylatePreservativeA glycerin ester of caprylic acid with antimicrobial action, used as a 'preservative-free' preservative booster.Glyceryl stearateEmulsifierAn ester of glycerin and stearic acid; the workhorse emulsifier of lotions and creams.Glyceryl stearate SEEmulsifierGlyceryl stearate with a little soap added so it emulsifies on its own ('self-emulsifying').Glycolic acid (AHA)ExfoliantThe smallest alpha hydroxy acid, from sugar cane; water-soluble, works on the surface. Strength depends on percentage and pH; sunscreen is…GlycolipidsCleansing agentSugar-fat molecules from fermentation (sophorolipids, rhamnolipids), used as mild biosurfactants in newer cleansers.Grapeseed oilVitis Vinifera Seed Oil · EmollientA thin, linoleic-rich oil from wine-making leftovers; light and fast-absorbing.Green tea extractCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract · AntioxidantAn extract rich in polyphenols (EGCG); a plant antioxidant used in serums and sunscreens.
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Hemp seed oilCannabis Sativa Seed Oil · EmollientThe oil of hemp seeds, rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids; contains no meaningful THC or CBD. Not the same thing as CBD oil.HennaLawsonia Inermis Leaf Powder · ColorantGround henna leaves, the plant dye that stains hair and skin orange-red. Pure henna is only ever red-brown; 'black henna' means PPD was…Hexylene glycolSolventA glycol solvent and viscosity reducer used in small amounts.HomosalateUV filterA chemical UVB filter allowed in US sunscreens up to 15 percent.HoneyMel · HumectantHoney, a humectant with some antimicrobial activity; not vegan.Hyaluronic acidHumectantA large sugar molecule found naturally in skin and joints, used in skin care to hold water at the surface. On a label it often appears as…Hydrogen peroxideActiveThe bleaching agent of tooth whitening and hair lightening; an oxidiser. Concentration sets what it is allowed in.Hydrogenated lecithinEmulsifierLecithin made more stable by hydrogenation; the shell of liposomes in many serums.Hydrolyzed collagenHumectantCollagen broken into small peptides. On skin it acts as a humectant and film former; it does not become collagen in the skin. Animal or…Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidHumectantHyaluronic acid broken into smaller pieces so it can sit a little deeper in the outer skin layer than the full-size molecule.Hydrolyzed keratinConditioning agentThe hair protein broken into fragments that cling to damaged hair; usually from wool or feathers.Hydrolyzed wheat proteinConditioning agentWheat protein fragments used in conditioners and some skin care; a listed allergen source on labels.HydroquinoneActiveA skin-bleaching drug. In the US it is no longer allowed in over-the-counter cosmetics (the 2020 CARES Act); 2 percent and up is…HydroxyapatiteActiveThe mineral of tooth enamel and bone, used in fluoride-free toothpastes; the nano form is restricted in the EU.HydroxyethylcelluloseTexture and thickenerA plant-cellulose thickener that gives clear gels and lotions their body.Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (granactive retinoid)ActiveAn ester of retinoic acid sold as a gentler retinoid; usually listed with a carrier like dimethyl isosorbide.
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Iron oxide (black)CI 77499 · ColorantBlack iron oxide pigment; mascara and eyeliner black.Iron oxide (red)CI 77491 · ColorantRed iron oxide pigment; with yellow (CI 77492) and black (CI 77499) it makes every foundation shade. Also a UV-blocking pigment in tinted…Iron oxide (yellow)CI 77492 · ColorantYellow iron oxide pigment, one of the three foundation primaries.IsododecaneSolventA volatile hydrocarbon that evaporates after spreading; the base of long-wear lipsticks and lightweight hair oils.Isopropyl alcoholSolventRubbing alcohol; a solvent and antiseptic that evaporates fast.Isopropyl myristateEmollientA thin ester that helps a cream spread and absorb; rated highly comedogenic in old rabbit-ear tests, which is why it is rare in face…
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Jojoba beadsHydrogenated Jojoba Oil · ExfoliantJojoba wax formed into smooth spheres that melt as they rub; the gentle, biodegradable scrub particle that replaced plastic microbeads.Jojoba oilSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil · EmollientA liquid wax from the jojoba seed, close in makeup to skin's own sebum; stable and light.
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Kaolin (white clay)Texture and thickenerA soft white clay that absorbs oil; the gentlest of the clay-mask clays.KetoconazoleActiveAn antifungal; 1 percent dandruff shampoo is an over-the-counter drug in the US, 2 percent is prescription.Kojic acidActiveA compound from the fermentation of rice (sake and soy sauce), used in brightening products at about 1 percent; unstable in light.Kokum butterGarcinia Indica Seed Butter · EmollientA hard, dry-feeling butter from the kokum tree of India; used in lip balms and bars.
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Lactic acid (AHA)ExfoliantA larger, gentler alpha hydroxy acid that is also a humectant; part of skin's own natural moisturising factor.Lactobionic acid (PHA)ExfoliantA polyhydroxy acid from milk sugar; mild exfoliant and humectant.LanolinOcclusiveThe wax from sheep's wool, close to human skin lipids; an FDA skin protectant used on cracked lips and nursing nipples. Not vegan; a…Lauramine oxideCleansing agentA mild foam booster and thickener used in body wash and dish soap alike.Lauryl glucosideCleansing agentAnother of the glucoside family of mild sugar surfactants.Lavender oilLavandula Angustifolia Oil · FragranceThe essential oil of lavender; contains linalool and linalyl acetate, both fragrance allergens the EU requires to be listed.LecithinEmulsifierA phospholipid from soy or sunflower; a natural emulsifier and the shell of liposomes.Lemon oilCitrus Limon Peel Oil · FragranceCold-pressed lemon peel oil; contains limonene and, in the cold-pressed form, compounds that make skin more sensitive to sun (phototoxic)…Lemongrass oilCymbopogon Flexuosus Oil · FragranceA citral-rich essential oil; citral is a listed fragrance allergen.Licorice root (glycyrrhiza)Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract · ActiveThe INCI listing for licorice root extract; see licorice root extract.Licorice root extractActiveExtract of Glycyrrhiza glabra, used for its soothing and brightening reputation; the compounds are glabridin and glycyrrhizic acid.LimoneneFragranceThe scent of citrus peel; harmless fresh, a contact allergen once it oxidises in air. One of the 26 listed EU fragrance allergens.LinaloolFragranceA floral scent compound found in lavender and many essential oils; one of the 26 allergens the EU requires to be named when present above a…Linoleic acidEmollientAn essential omega-6 fatty acid, the one skin with acne tends to be short of in sebum studies; the main fatty acid of sunflower, safflower…
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Macadamia oilMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil · EmollientA nut oil high in palmitoleic acid, which skin's own sebum also carries; used in richer creams.MadecassosideActiveOne of the main compounds of centella asiatica, used on its own in soothing creams.Magnesium hydroxidepH adjusterThe milder odour-neutraliser used in baking-soda-free natural deodorants.Mandelic acid (AHA)ExfoliantAn alpha hydroxy acid from bitter almonds with a large molecule, so it penetrates slowly; used for gentler exfoliation.Mango butterMangifera Indica Seed Butter · EmollientThe fat from the mango stone; softer and lighter than cocoa butter, with little scent.MentholActiveThe cooling compound of peppermint; in the US an over-the-counter drug ingredient when used for itch or pain relief, a cosmetic when used…Methylisothiazolinone (MI)PreservativeA preservative that caused a wave of contact allergy in the 2010s; the EU now bans it in leave-on products and limits it in rinse-off ones.MethylparabenPreservativeThe smallest paraben, used since the 1920s; well studied and allowed in the EU and US. The 'paraben-free' trend followed studies on larger…MicaColorantA mineral that gives shimmer; coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxides for colour (then listed as both). Sourcing from child labour in…MilkLac · EmollientMilk, in goat-milk soaps and bath milks; the lactic acid and fats give the reputation for softness.Mineral oilParaffinum Liquidum · EmollientA refined liquid from petroleum; cosmetic grade is purified to pharmaceutical standards. Light, non-comedogenic in testing, and stable.MinoxidilActiveAn over-the-counter hair regrowth drug in the US (2 and 5 percent topical). A drug, not a cosmetic.Montmorillonite (French green clay)Texture and thickenerA fine clay that absorbs oil; the green kind gets its colour from iron and decomposed plant matter.Moringa oilMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil · EmollientA very stable oleic-rich oil from the moringa tree; the 'ben oil' of old perfumery.
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Octinoxate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate)UV filterA chemical UVB filter; restricted in Hawaii alongside oxybenzone.Octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate)UV filterA weak chemical UVB filter used to support others and help dissolve them.OctocryleneUV filterA chemical UVB filter that also stabilises avobenzone. Can contain traces of benzophenone as it ages.Oleic acidEmollientThe omega-9 fatty acid of olive and avocado oils; richer, and in some studies more barrier-disrupting than linoleic acid when used alone.Olive oilOlea Europaea Fruit Oil · EmollientThe oil of the olive, mostly oleic acid; the base of castile soap. Some studies find it can weaken the skin barrier of infants with regular…Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3)UV filterA chemical UVA/UVB filter. Allowed in the US; restricted in Hawaii and some other places over reef concerns, and the FDA has asked makers…
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Palmitic acidEmollientA fatty acid common in palm oil and in skin's own sebum; used as an emollient and in soap.Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7ActiveThe other half of the Matrixyl 3000 pair; peptides are listed by chain length and sequence number.Palmitoyl tripeptide-1ActiveA short chain of amino acids with a fatty tail so it can pass the surface; one half of the 'Matrixyl 3000' pair.Panthenol (provitamin B5)HumectantConverted to pantothenic acid in skin; a humectant and soothing agent used in everything from moisturizers to hair conditioners.PEG (polyethylene glycol)SolventA family of polymers listed with a number (PEG-8, PEG-400) for their size; humectants, solvents and emulsifier backbones. 'PEG-free' is a…PEG-100 stearateEmulsifierA stearic acid ester with a polyethylene glycol chain, usually paired with glyceryl stearate as a two-part emulsifier.PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oilEmulsifierA solubiliser that lets fragrance and essential oils disperse in water-based products such as toners and sprays.Pentylene glycolSolventA glycol humectant with mild antimicrobial action; helps preserve formulas sold as preservative-free.Peppermint oilMentha Piperita Oil · FragranceEssential oil of peppermint, high in menthol; gives the cooling tingle in foot creams and lip products.Petrolatum (petroleum jelly)OcclusiveA refined mineral jelly and the strongest occlusive in common use; an FDA skin protectant. Cosmetic grade is highly refined.PhenoxyethanolPreservativeThe most used cosmetic preservative since parabens fell out of favour; limited to 1 percent in the EU. Often paired with ethylhexylglycerin.Phenyl trimethiconeEmollientA silicone that adds shine; common in hair serums and glossy skin products.PhytosphingosineEmollientA building block of ceramides found in skin; added to barrier creams.Piroctone olamineActiveAn anti-dandruff agent used in place of zinc pyrithione, especially in European formulas.Polyglutamic acidHumectantA peptide from fermented soybeans (natto), used as a humectant alongside hyaluronic acid.Polyquaternium-7Conditioning agentA cationic polymer that leaves hair and skin feeling soft after a wash; common in shampoo and body wash.Polysorbate 20EmulsifierA mild emulsifier that lets small amounts of oil or fragrance disperse in water; common in toners and mists.Polysorbate 60EmulsifierA mid-size polysorbate emulsifier used in creams and lotions.Polysorbate 80EmulsifierA larger polysorbate, used to blend oils into water-based products.Pomegranate extractPunica Granatum Extract · AntioxidantPomegranate fruit or seed extract, used for its polyphenols.Potassium hydroxidepH adjusterThe alkali used to make liquid soap, and to adjust pH in creams.Potassium sorbatePreservativeA mild preservative against mould and yeast, used with sodium benzoate; needs a low pH to work.PPD (p-phenylenediamine)ColorantThe dye base of most permanent dark hair colours and the main cause of hair-dye allergy; the EU requires a patch-test warning. Also the…Prickly pear seed oilOpuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil · EmollientA linoleic-rich oil pressed from cactus fruit seeds; expensive because each fruit holds very little.Pro-XylaneHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol · ActiveA sugar-derived molecule used by one large cosmetics group in its anti-ageing lines; the name is a trademark.PropanediolSolventA glycol usually made from corn sugar, used in place of propylene glycol as a solvent and humectant.Propolis extractActiveThe resin bees make from tree buds, used in Korean 'glow' serums; not vegan, and a known contact allergen for a few.Propylene glycolSolventA glycol used as a humectant and solvent in cosmetics, foods and medicines. Listed as a contact allergen for a small share of people in…PropylparabenPreservativeA paraben; the EU limits it to 0.14 percent and bans it from leave-on products for the nappy area of children under three.
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Radish root fermentLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate · PreservativeA ferment sold as a natural preservative; weak on its own, usually one of several.Red 7 Lake (lithol rubine)CI 15850 · ColorantA synthetic red pigment, the classic lipstick red; FDA-certified batch by batch like all US synthetic colours.ResveratrolAntioxidantThe antioxidant from grape skins and Japanese knotweed, used in night serums.RetinaldehydeActiveA form of vitamin A one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol; used at low percentages, usually 0.05 to 0.1.Retinol (vitamin A)ActiveThe alcohol form of vitamin A, converted by skin into retinoic acid. Used in night products at 0.1 to 1 percent; degrades in light and air,…Retinyl palmitateActiveAn ester of vitamin A and palmitic acid; the mildest and least potent of the retinoids on cosmetic labels.Rose waterRosa Damascena Flower Water · SolventThe water left from distilling rose oil; a scented base for toners and mists.Rosehip seed oilRosa Canina Fruit Oil · EmollientOil from the seeds of the wild rose, high in linoleic acid and carrying a little natural vitamin A (as carotenoids). Oxidises quickly; dark…Rosemary oilRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil · FragranceEssential oil of rosemary; a scent ingredient in hair products, and the source of rosemary extract used as an antioxidant.
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Sacha inchi oilPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil · EmollientA Peruvian seed oil unusually high in omega-3 (alpha-linolenic) acid; oxidises quickly.Sal butterShorea Robusta Seed Butter · EmollientA firm butter from the Indian sal tree, used in place of shea in balms.Salicylic acid (BHA)ExfoliantAn oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid that loosens dead cells on the surface and inside pores. In the US, products that claim to treat acne with…SaltSodium Chloride · Texture and thickenerTable salt, used in tiny amounts to thicken shampoo and body wash, and in bulk in bath salts and scrubs.Sandalwood oilSantalum Album Oil · FragranceEssential oil from the heartwood of the Indian sandalwood tree, now mostly plantation-grown in Australia; a base note in beard oils and…Saponified coconut oilSodium Cocoate · Cleansing agentCoconut oil turned to soap; gives a bar its hard lather and bubbles.Saponified olive oilSodium Olivate · Cleansing agentOlive oil turned to soap with sodium hydroxide; what a castile bar is made of. On a label it may also read 'saponified olive oil'.Saponified palm oilSodium Palmate · Cleansing agentPalm oil turned to soap; makes a hard, long-lasting bar.Saponified tallowSodium Tallowate · Cleansing agentBeef fat turned to soap; the traditional base of many mass-market bars. Not vegan.Sclerotium gumTexture and thickenerA fermentation gum used as a natural thickener with a smoother feel than xanthan.Sea buckthorn fruit oilHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil · EmollientA deep orange oil from the sea buckthorn berry, high in palmitoleic acid and carotenoids; stains fabric and, in quantity, skin.Shea butterButyrospermum Parkii Butter · EmollientThe fat of the shea nut from West Africa; rich in oleic and stearic acids and unsaponifiables. The base of most body butters.Shea butter ethyl estersEmollientShea butter reacted into a light liquid; the shea feel without the heaviness.SilicaTexture and thickenerSilicon dioxide in fine particles; absorbs oil, mattifies and thickens. The amorphous (non-crystalline) kind is what cosmetics use.Snail mucinSnail Secretion Filtrate · HumectantThe filtered slime of garden snails, a Korean skin care staple; mostly water with glycoproteins and hyaluronic acid. Not vegan.Soapnut extractSapindus Mukurossi Fruit Extract · Cleansing agentExtract of the soapnut berry; the saponins give a mild, low-foam wash.Soapwort extractSaponaria Officinalis Leaf Extract · Cleansing agentA plant whose saponins foam gently; used in very mild washes.Sodium anisatePreservativeA salt of anisic acid from fennel, used as a mild antifungal preservative.Sodium ascorbyl phosphateAntioxidantA stable, water-soluble salt of vitamin C that skin converts to ascorbic acid; gentler and longer-lasting on the shelf than the pure acid.Sodium benzoatePreservativeA food and cosmetic preservative that works best in acidic products; often paired with potassium sorbate in 'natural' formulas.Sodium citratepH adjusterThe salt of citric acid, used as a buffer and mild chelating agent.Sodium coco-sulfateCleansing agentA sulfate made from whole coconut oil rather than one fatty acid; chemically close to SLS, often used in 'natural' shampoo bars.Sodium cocoyl glutamateCleansing agentAn amino-acid surfactant from coconut and glutamic acid; mild, low-foam, common in Korean and Japanese cleansers.Sodium cocoyl isethionateCleansing agentA gentle surfactant from coconut fatty acids; the cleansing agent in many syndet (non-soap) bars and creamy face washes.Sodium fluorideActiveThe anti-cavity drug ingredient of toothpaste in the US; a toothpaste with it is an OTC drug, one without it a cosmetic.Sodium gluconateChelating agentA corn-derived chelating agent used in place of EDTA.Sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid salt)HumectantThe salt form of hyaluronic acid, a sugar molecule that binds many times its weight in water. Molecular weight decides how deep it goes;…Sodium hydroxide (lye)pH adjusterThe alkali that turns oils into soap. None remains in a properly made bar; in creams it appears in tiny amounts to set the pH.Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)Cleansing agentSLS with added ethylene oxide, which makes it milder; the commonest foaming agent in shampoo and body wash.Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionateCleansing agentA newer, milder relative of sodium cocoyl isethionate with better foam.Sodium lauroyl sarcosinateCleansing agentA mild foaming surfactant derived from an amino acid; used in toothpaste and gentle cleansers.Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)Cleansing agentA strong, high-foaming cleansing agent. Effective and cheap; a known skin irritant at high concentration or long contact, which is why many…Sodium levulinatePreservativeA corn-derived salt used with sodium anisate as a mild preservative system in natural formulas.Sodium methyl cocoyl taurateCleansing agentA mild, creamy-foaming surfactant from coconut and taurine; common in gentle face washes.Sodium PCAHumectantThe salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a major part of skin's natural moisturising factor; a strong humectant.Sodium phytateChelating agentA plant-derived chelating agent from rice bran, used in place of EDTA in some formulas.Sodium stearoyl glutamateEmulsifierAn amino-acid emulsifier used in mineral sunscreens and natural creams.Sorbitan olivateEmulsifierThe other half of the olive-based emulsifier pair.Sorbitan stearateEmulsifierA low-HLB emulsifier usually paired with a polysorbate to make a stable cream.SqualaneEmollientA stable, saturated form of squalene, a lipid found in skin's own sebum; made from sugar cane or olives today (shark liver in the past).…Stearic acidEmulsifierA fatty acid from vegetable fats used to thicken and, as a soap, to emulsify; gives bar soap and creams their body.Stearyl alcoholEmollientA fatty alcohol used as a thickener and emollient; the other half of cetearyl alcohol.SugarSucrose · ExfoliantGranulated sugar, the scrubbing grit in sugar scrubs; softer-edged than salt and dissolves in water.SulfurActiveAn over-the-counter acne drug ingredient in the US at 3 to 10 percent; smells of eggs.Sunflower seed oilHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil · EmollientA linoleic-rich oil used widely as a light emollient; well tolerated in studies on newborn skin.Sweet almond oilPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil · EmollientA light oil from sweet almonds, mostly oleic acid; the classic massage oil. A tree-nut product.Sweet orange oilCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil · FragranceCold-pressed orange peel oil, mostly limonene, a listed fragrance allergen when oxidised.Synthetic micaSynthetic Fluorphlogopite · ColorantLab-made mica, purer and more uniform than mined mica, with no sourcing concerns.
T
TalcTexture and thickenerA soft mineral used in powders for slip and absorbency. Cosmetic talc is tested for asbestos; the FDA has proposed a standard test method…Tea tree oilMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil · FragranceAn Australian essential oil with antimicrobial properties in lab studies, used in spot treatments and shampoos. Oxidised oil is a known…Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateAntioxidantAn oil-soluble form of vitamin C, stable and used in oils and creams; often listed as THD ascorbate.Tetrasodium EDTAChelating agentThe chelating agent used in soaps and alkaline products, where it keeps hard water from leaving scum.Titanium dioxideUV filterA mineral UV filter, strongest in UVB; also the commonest white pigment in makeup. Listed as CI 77891 when used as a colorant.Titanium dioxide (pigment)CI 77891 · ColorantTitanium dioxide listed by its colour index number when used as a white pigment rather than a UV filter.Tocopheryl linoleateAntioxidantVitamin E bound to linoleic acid; an antioxidant emollient.Tranexamic acidActiveAn amino-acid derivative used in brightening serums at 2 to 5 percent; as a drug it is used for other purposes entirely.TrehaloseHumectantA sugar that plants use to survive drying out; a humectant in serums and masks.TriclosanPreservativeAn antibacterial agent the FDA removed from consumer hand soaps in 2016; still found in some toothpastes and older products.TriethanolaminepH adjusterAn alkaline liquid used to neutralise carbomer and set the pH of creams; the EU limits it and bars nitrosating agents alongside it.
U
V
Vanilla extractVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract · FragranceExtract of the vanilla pod, used for scent; most 'vanilla' in cosmetics is synthetic vanillin.Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)AntioxidantPure vitamin C, water-soluble and unstable: it oxidises to a yellow-brown in light and air. Serums usually run 10 to 20 percent at a low…Vitamin E (tocopherol)AntioxidantA fat-soluble vitamin added to protect the oils in a formula from going rancid, and as a skin antioxidant. Often paired with vitamin C.Vitamin E acetateTocopheryl Acetate · AntioxidantA stable ester of vitamin E; the form most often used in creams and lotions.
W
Walnut shell powderJuglans Regia Shell Powder · ExfoliantGround walnut shell, a physical scrub particle; sharper than jojoba beads, which is the long-running argument over face scrubs.WaterAqua · SolventThe first ingredient in most products, because it is the largest by weight. Purified or deionised in cosmetics; 'aqua' and 'water' are the…Willow bark extractSalix Alba Bark Extract · ExfoliantExtract of white willow bark, the plant source of salicin (related to salicylic acid); used as a gentler 'natural BHA' though it is not the…Witch hazelHamamelis Virginiana Water · ActiveA distillate of witch hazel bark and leaves, an astringent used in toners. Many versions are made with alcohol; look for the alcohol-free…
X
Y
Yeast ferment filtrateSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate · HumectantThe liquid from fermenting yeast, the base of several well-known Japanese essences; mostly water, amino acids and sugars.Yellow 5 (tartrazine)CI 19140 · ColorantA synthetic yellow dye used in bath products and some makeup; also a food dye.
Z
Zinc oxideUV filterA mineral UV filter that scatters and absorbs UVA and UVB; also an FDA skin protectant (diaper creams). Leaves a white cast unless…Zinc PCAActiveA zinc salt used in products for oily skin, for its oil-control reputation.Zinc pyrithioneActiveThe over-the-counter anti-dandruff drug ingredient in many shampoos. Banned in EU cosmetics since 2022; still allowed in the US.Zinc ricinoleateActiveA zinc salt of castor oil fatty acid that traps odour molecules; used in natural deodorants.
How to read a label
US labels use INCI names (Latin for plant parts, chemical names for the rest) in descending order by weight down to 1 percent; below that, in any order. "Fragrance" or "parfum" can stand for dozens of undisclosed compounds. A plus sign or asterisk usually marks an organic ingredient; a jar symbol with a number of months is the period after opening. Colorants are listed last by their CI number.
Where the words come from
The function groups are the ones the EU's CosIng database and the Personal Care Products Council use. The one-line descriptions are ours, written from the public record; a Wikidata description and the three most recent PubMed papers that mention the ingredient with skin are fetched for each entry. Products that regulators treat as drugs in the US (sunscreens, acne treatments, antiperspirants, dandruff shampoos) are marked as such. FDA and CPSC recalls →